Callanish to Stornoway - 09/05/05

After putting some more pictures on the web, I take the 12.45 bus to Callanish. On board are a number of Italians, who are discussing the various sites of interest on the West Side. After Leurbost, I can discern the Harris hills in the distance. Clisham and Mullach bho Thuath are wearing a snowy hairnet today. It’s very cool today, and showers move over southern Lewis and Harris. On arrival at Callanish, at 1.15, I have a bowl of soup and a tuna & cucumber sandwich. Then I set off on foot – back to Steornabhagh. A matter of only about 24 km (15 miles). First through the Standing Stones, then through Callanish Village back to the A858 road. Walk past the church, which has a colossal carpark. In the next village, Breascleit, there is a sideroad leading off to the right at the school. This goes uphill fairly steeply into the main backroad of the village. A man herds his sheep down this road, and I stand aside to let the flock through without upsetting the animals. Then I turn right once more, up the Pentland Road itself. This was to have been the trackbed for a railway, but rather steep at this point. The road strikes out across the moors, rising steeply. A couple of lapwings fly their mating ritual. Sheep follow me in their fields, thinking I’m the farmer bringing them food. A dead animal lies in the verge of the road. A man is cutting peats away on the hill; one peatbank has been worked very recently, the sods are still very wet. This stretch of road is graced by a number of lochs, some are a haven for waterfowl and waders. The birds are very vocal right now. Èitssal moves into view as I approach the Càrlabhagh turnoff at 3.10. Follows the very lonely 7 miles to the Achamor turning, although there are cars about. Pass the outliers of Stacaiseal, but the terrain looks very broken, and I will not be venturing out north of the Pentland Road at this point. Arrive at the first bridge at 4.25, 2¾ hours after leaving Callanish. I joined the road here 5 days ago, after crossing from Èitsal. Have a 20 minute break in the sun, it’s very pleasant in spite of the cool north to northwesterly wind. It’s heartrendingly beautiful in the sunshine, although you could be forgiven for thinking it’s bleak. Stacaiseal now rises up visible to the northwest with Beinn Bragar far behind. The Barvas Hills loom up to the northeast. I trudge on at 4.45, and can glimpse Loch Beag a’Chocair to my left. The traffic on the A859 can be seen far away to the southeast, as they pass the old Halfway Garage. Loch Bhatandip is a familiar companion on the approach to the Achamor turnoff, it stretches for about a mile. As I walk over the junction at 5.25, a cuckoo flies directly overhead, towards the small plantation just north of the road. On the approach to Stornoway, a cyclist comes the other way. And that carcass still adorns the dyke by the cattlegrid <sigh>. Return to town via the normal route at 6.45 as planned. Encounter mrs B at Somerfields. Feel absolutely knackered, but well satisfied. At 11.55 pm it’s still light to the north