Monday, 3 October 2005

Sunday 02/10/05

Dreich morning with clouds briefly breaking at noon. We go out in a car to Bostadh, in Great Bernera. Route runs along the Pentland Road. The sheep beside the cattlegrid outside Marybank, which has been there since April 11th, is now sheepsoup. Down to Achamor, with a nice view over the Lochs area. Belt down the A858 to Garynahine, then turn left into the B8011. The sun shines on the houses at Linshader, but the gloom quickly returns. The levels in the Grimersta River are some 30 to 40 cms above what they were in July, and the water crashes over the weirs along the full width of the river. Up the B8059 to Great Bernera. First to the little beach at Tobson. I see a little black face in a cavity under the roadway, after spotting a lithe black form darting in there. Could be a mink, was too small for an otter. On to Bostadh Beach, where it's cool and windy. The tide is well out, but once on the skerries it gets very, very windy. The tide is washing up huge fronds of seaweed, which must have been physically torn from the seabed by the recent gales. The sand is fast encroaching on the Iron Age House, which is locked up. The smell of peatreek indicates that it is still open to the public, probably until the end of October. We head back to SY with some level of anxiety, because the petrol gauge reads empty. Fortunately, there is still enough fuel in the tank to cover the 30 miles to Stornoway, and we make Engebretsen on time. They are the only fuelpump open on a Sunday here. After that, we drive to the Coastguard Station, Lower Sandwick and the Castle Grounds. Mrs B is stunned by the level of devastation wreaked by the January hurricane. Return at 3pm to have a late lunch. Mrs B's son and partner return to Glasgow at 4.30, which leaves an empty house. The afternoon closes dreich, wet and misty. After sunset, at 7 pm, darkness falls quickly. Following the late lunch, I have no appetite for a full meal, so I gladly take up the offer of a cheese toastie from mrs B.

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