Wednesday 6 October 2004

Drumfearn and Leitir Fura - 06/10/04

This morning, I set off for Broadford at 10.20, then on towards Sleaton the Armadale bus. I alight at the Drumfearn road end, as I wish towalk to Heast. In a direct line, it's not more than 3 miles. According to my Explorer map, there is supposed to be a path from the bridge atNG691170 to the outflow of the Kinloch Eishort river. Well, I walk backfrom the Drumfearn road up to the bridge. There is a sign at the sideof the road. Aye. Once there though, the moment you step off the roadyou stand in a foot of water. The recent heavy rains make it impossibleto traverse the mile to the Eishort river. I retreat to and go up theDrumfearn road. The first houses in this remote hamlet, appear on thehillside of Mullach an Achaidh Mhoir, to the right. Cross the bridge and pass several houses. A Dutch car stands outside one of them. It's turning out nice and sunny. Reach the end of the village road in a thicket of birch trees. A track carries on to the shore. From here, a path goes on above sealevel, through some very dense birch woods, overrocks. It gets very, very complicated and I sit down for lunch at a small cape. A boat lies tied up, high on shore. In view of the hightide, it's not possible to proceed below the coastal cliffs. Carryingon northeast through the trees is not an option either. I concededefeat and wrestle my way back to the road-end. Some men are working ona piece of machinery as I regain the main road. Carry on down thevillage, dodging a shower. At the A851, I follow the signs for aforestry walk at Leitir Fura. The access road starts half a mile southof the Drumfearn roadend. A broad forestry track leads to a carpark,from where an upper and lower path go east northeast, parallel to theSound of Sleat. The upper track will eventually emerge at Kylerhea, 12 km further on. The trail is well marked, and information panels are available at regular intervals. They tell of the significance of trees to former inhabitants of this area. most of them were cleared by past lairds. The township of Leitir Fura, NG731159, is the only substantial remains of a settlement in this remote corner of Skye. The views are absolutely stupendous as you descend from the upper trail through Leitir Fura. You can see down Loch Hourn, the Sound of Sleat, Loch na Dal and Isle Ornsay, all the way to Mallaig. This is not readily discernible because of (a) the bright, low sun and (b) a massive shower. Everything is set in a golden glow - it is early autumn. Once I have reached the lower trail in Leitir Fura, it starts to rain heavily. I spend quite some time in the bramble bushes, stuffing my face with blackberries by the pound. I finally tear myself away and head back for the main road through a very dark forest. Once back at the carpark, everybody has left. I also go forth and hobble back to the Drumfearn roadend to wait for the 5.25 bus back to Broadford. Posters for upcoming events flap in the wind. I remove one for a meeting by the SSP which took place 6 days ago. Yesterday's busdriver turns up in a luxury coach, so I congratulate him on the promotion. The world has been washed clean in the showers, and I enjoy the views on return to Broadford and latterly Kyleakin. Continue my quest as walking tourist information centre. Oh, the MacBackpackers and Haggis Tours buses also come here. Aargh!

Click on the link below for a description with pictures of the beautiful Leitir Fura Walk.
Leitir Fura Walk

1 comment: