Great Bernera - 07/04/05

Today dawns cold, very windy and wet. Over breakfast I cannot believe my eyes when the ferry comes back in, having left 90 minutes earlier. Conditions were so atrocious in the northwesterly gale, that the crew decided to turn back. The Muirneag has not come in at all. The guest that had left on the early ferry returns to Mrs B's bleary-eyed at 1030. This man, Brendan, had attended a meeting with protest group Moorland Without Turbines, who are opposed to the proposed windfarm on the Barvas Moor. If there is no lunchtime ferry, he may nip up to the Butt of Lewis. By midday, the sun comes out in bits and pieces. Well, there are no sailings until tomorrow lunchtime. I disappear to Great Bernera at 1245, first by Galson bus to Garynahine, then by minibus up to Bosta. The latter vehicle I have to myself. Was dropped off at Bosta at 13.45, in a bitingly cold northerly gale. Went down to the beach, very nice seascape with the spray flying over the outlying islets. Looked round the Iron Age house. This is still inaccessible due to flooding. Cannot stand that wind on my face for very long, so after a little while I turn south. Up the glen to Loch a'Sgail. Have to pass through a gate, a new one entangled with a rusty, old one. Hole in waterproofs, thank you. Up the hill and over a very stony hillside towards Tobson. Go completely wrong, ending up scrabbling down a 20 foot cliff, nearly becoming cragbound in the process. Also end up in somebody's backgarden, but this gent fortunately allows me out. What a laugh. Go down to the beach, then retrace my steps to the little sideroad. The path is waymarked from there, if a little tricky to follow. Last time round I made my own way - now I'm being directed right down to the tidemark. The weather remains downright unpleasant with that freezing northerly gale and frequent wintry showers. Thermometer is less than credible, it says it's 7C. Sure! Quite a few domestic fuel tanks washed up on the shore here. Can see the big beach at Reef, Uig across the water. Cross the bridge to Bhalasaigh and return to the Community Centre at Breacleit to wait for the bus. The auxiliary fire engine is moved out, but it stops half way down the access road. Bus comes in at 4.50, to drop me off at Garynahine at 5.05. Have to wait for 15 minutes in freezing conditions for the Galson coach. Driver is in no hurry at all, he explains to a German tourist that Achmore is not in sight of the sea and that the village is surrounded by 30 - 40 freshwater lochs. Return to SY at 5.45