Guide to Lewis & Harris III - 26/03/05

At 10 o’clock, we set off for Harris. First of all, I want to show them the views from the Aline to Langabhat track. At Airigh a’Bhruaich, two cyclists come the other way. As we arrive at Ath Linne at 10.45, two walkers prepare to go to the hill. With intermittent stops for stones, we slowly toil uphill. Nice view down Loch Seaforth and ahead to Creag na Clibhe, which overlooks Loch Langabhat and Morsgail. Can actually see a loop of road towards the northwest, which could be the B8011 Uig road. F&H sample the run-off from a peatbank, which I find to be bitter. They relish it! Picked up Frederick’s stone, left behind on the way up, marked by a tissue. Two gullies contain the remains of several sheep. Peat can be seen to have a depth of 1 to 10 feet. Return to the car at 12.15, and proceed through the Aird a’Mhulainn roadworks to Scaladale. Wouldn’t like to be staying at the center there, now with those roadworks right outside the frontdoor. The we go up the hill to Màraig. I show F&H what the road to Reinigeadal looks like from a picnic bench on the main road. They are fine with the 13% gradients (that’s 1 in 8). We do not have lunch there, because of a chilly wind. We plummet down 137 metres to sealevel at Màraig, then up again just over a mile further along. Lunch is taken on the viewpoint on the entry to Reinigeadal. A local resident has left a comments book + pens in a jamjar there. The view stands to be restricted by the house under construction below the viewpoint. Can discern Molinginish’s little bay, but not the houses there. The footpath from Urgha can be seen snaking down from the pass. We inspect the exposed layer of rock, which was blasted out in building the road. Bits and pieces fall out of it. Can see the Shiants from here, but like the rest of the higher summits, their tops are obscured by cloud. This is at a level of 1,000 to 1,500 feet, judging by some reference points. The clouds roll over the top of Toddun, the 528 m high mountain behind Reinigeadal. On descent, the clouds dissipate. This is called the föhn-effect, after the dry wind in the Alps. We look inside Reinigeadal Youth Hostel, a simple but cosy affair. A tad run-down, but nice and warm. Leave a pound for the use of facilities. By now, it’s nearly 2 o’clock, so in order to be back in SY at 6, we have to go straight to Huisinis. This precludes lunch in Tarbert, but we’ve already had lunch. South of the mountains, the sun is out with a vengeance, and the islands to the south bathe in an almost Mediterranean glow. Taransay, Ciapaval and the Sound of Harris islands. To the north, the Harris mountains loom up, cloud rolling down the southern slope, but again dissipating as they do. Glen Miavaig is spectacular. A little way outside Cliasmol, the local school sits in the middle of nowhere. Spectacular is also a good description of the road. Sharp corners, blind summits, switchbacks, you name it. We approach Amhuinnsuidhe Castle, 9 miles down the road, when Frederick begins to panic and tries to generate moral support from me, as I’m sitting in the front passenger seat. Unfortunately, when on a difficult road I shut up in order not to break concentration. We drive through the gardens, past the front door and out the gate, which is the route of the road. Only half a mile beyond the castle is there a safe opportunity for a short break. After a drink of water and some soothing words from Hedwig, our driver is fit for duty once more, although still shaky. Arrive at Huisinis at 3.30, 45 minutes after setting out from the main road at Ardhasaig. It’s absolutely fantastic out there, if very cold in the northerly wind. Huisinis consists of a few houses lumped together on an isthmus. To the south is a lovely sandy beach. F&H cull limpets off the rock and proceed to eat them raw. Aargh! Have a look on the northern side of the isthmus and can see the (derelict) houses on Scarp. Nine miles to the north, in the face of that keen, cold wind we have today, the houses of Brenish can be discerned. Unfortunately, the mouths of Lochs Resort and Tamnavaigh stand in the way of a roadlink, so the distance by road is a staggering 70 (yes seventy) miles. On foot it’s 25-30 miles. You need to hire a boat to reach Scarp. On the way back to the car, Hedwig is hugged by a weatherbeaten old lady who tells her she’s lived at Huisinis all her life and has been married for 61 years. One other lady was out with her young daughter, playing in the sands with the dog. Another visitor was sunning herself at the carpark. The postman came along to deliver the mail. Commenced the return journey at 4pm, and saw a herd of 5 deer along the way. Frederick was talked down the road by Hedwig. It later turned out that the B887 is one of the most challenging roads in Scotland! Some sections of the road don’t have road markings, making it even more difficult in the dark. Reached Ardhasaig at 4.45 and proceeded north after taking petrol. Clouds have now lowered to 800 feet, and have acquired a bluish tinge. It’s misty on the high pass below the Clisham. Through Balallan, Frederick blissfully blasts along at 50 mph, even though the speed limit is 40. Returned to Mrs B’s at 6pm sharp. F&H are due to go to a concert at 7.30, so dinner at HS1 is a somewhat hurried affair. The fish & chips were good though.