Great Bernera - 25/02/05

A very nice, sunny day, so I set off on the 12.45 bus towards Garynahine, with the intention of visiting Great Bernera. One elderly gentleman bursts into song between Leurbost and Achamor, but I am advised that he is probably a bit tipsy. At Garynahine, a minibus is waiting for Great Bernera passengers. There is some good humoured banter between the driver and his regulars. We set off just after 1.15 down the B8011 and the B8059 to Bernera. One person is dropped off just before the bridge; another at Kirkibost on the southeastern side of the island. I am left on the western side, 2 miles west of the central village of Breascleit, at the settlement of Bhalasaigh / Valasay. A footbridge leads across an inlet to a house. A path is signposted north to Tobson, but the poles lead me nowhere; I have to find my own route. It’s a gloriously sunny day, but not warm at 7C. There is no wind, so that makes it feel very warm. I am tempted to take off scarf and coat. I take the wrong side of Loch Veiribhat, but nonetheless end up in Tobson, a small village off a small bay. The path, rising steeply out of the township, heads high over the rocky hilltops. After a dogleg, it plummets down to Loch a’Sgaill by a wall. There is a gate, but this requires clambering skills. A broad valley leads north to Bostadh. Bostadh is famous for an Iron Age dwelling, but I cannot inspect its interior, as this is locked. Furthermore, it is affected by flooding, 4 inches of water inside. The beach is breathtaking, with great views north / northwest to offshore islets. The road takes me back to Breascleit in just over an hour. There is ice on shadowed lochs. The bus goes back to Garynahine at 4.45. Three cats are sunning themselves outside a derelict house. The same Dutch couple are on the Galson bus from Garynahine that were on on the way in. They were heading for Callanish, but now jump off at Leurbost for a southbound connecting bus. Return to Stornoway at 5.45.