Sunday 09/07/06

Nice sunny start to the day, but cloud quickly bubbles up. Our destination for the day is Kneep Beach in Uig, West Lewis. After lengthy preparations, we finally set forth at 1.40, through a deserted town centre, then down the Lochs road to Leurbost and the B8011 from Garynahine to Uig. Total distance 35 miles, which is normally covered in about an hour. It becomes very scenic after the Bernera turn-off, although the road becomes mainly single-track just before Scaliscro. Turn off at Miavaig, and head down Little Glen Valtos past Cliff Beach and over the hill to Valtos village. It's very peaceful at the pier; a Belgian driver is preparing to launch a rigid-inflatable boat. We drive round to Kneep and down the private track. A small rock does something to the bottom of the car; it's still driving OK, but it rattles no end. At the caravan, we are regaled with wine. Two kids of mrs B's third son's 4 are there too. I go round to the top of the hill to look over to Pabay Mor and the village of Valtos. I also venture into the sea, up to my knees. Water is cold. Kids are in it too - in wetsuits. The children are staying at the caravan park down the beach. We have a pleasant afternoon there, and don't leave until 7.30pm. We drive round the peninsula via Reef and Uigen and end up at Miavaig once more. Go down Glen Valtos, west towards Timsgarry. Glen Valtos has very high valley walls, which drop down the further west you go. Above Timsgarry, the most fantastic vista opens out to the mountains east and south, and the beach to the west. We park at the Ardroil campsite on the south side of the beach. A replica Lewis chessman has recently been erected above the beach. The walk onto the beach is magical in the low sunlight; it's well after 8pm. You can see to Mangurstadh and the Flannan Isles. We head back to Stornoway at 8.45; the battery in my camera finally runs out at Miavaig. I therefore cannot record the low light lying over the island. Hills and moors stand out in every detail. We have a laugh at the Creed Industrial Park, thinking of the recent Bin Fight in the Creed Park Corral. A council give-away of 3 compost bins per household left the islanders non-compost mentis when miles and miles of people queued along the Lochs road in both directions, adamant to get hold of their bins. We return to SY at 9.45, with dinner at 10.30 pm. Weather today is reasonable if cool. Cloud sometimes covered the hilltops, and looked threatening at times. A cool breeze blew, but it was nice on the several occasions that the sun came out. After sunset, a spectacular moon rose low over Arnish, through the clouds.