Just wanted to share a mountain ascent I did in Harris. I did several, but not all with pictures. Harris' mountains go up to 799 metres, that's a smidgen over 2,600 feet. I reached 690 metres on a hill called Teileasbhal, until a sense of exposure forbade me from proceeding further. I'm not happy with a gulf of 1,500 feet beside me. I've featured this entry before, but just wanted to share this crazy day again.
Teileasbhal - 19/04/05
Nice start to the day
weatherwise, and jump on the Harris bus to Bogha Glas. Thought
busdriver knew where I want off, he has dropped off by the Bardon site
office before. No, he had to be told. Went up the track to Glen
Langadale and branched left at the cairn, to go down to the upstream
ford. Bit soggy underfoot going downhill. Have a camera with me, so I’m
snapping away. Found the mapcase lying where I left it accidentally on
Saturday, none the worse for its 3 nights and days in the open. Tackle
that messy ascent towards the pass between Stuabhal and Stulabhal
between 12 and 12.45. I take a different route every time, but it
remains steep and soggy. Once on the pass, I continue uphill to Creag
Stulabhal, a fairly straightforward climb up a grassy incline. Once up
there, I follow the edge of the crag at a safe distance – it plummets
down 300 m (1,000 ft) over just 100 m. There is one very eerie
viewpoint down to Loch Stuladail. The view continues to expand upon
reaching the highest point of the Creag at 513 m (1680 ft). It’s a
bright sunny day with a fresh wind, and temperature at a very pleasant
15C (60 F). From the Creag, the shoulder falls away to Sron Ard,
southeast of Loch Bhoisimid. Can look all the way to Kinloch Resort,
Morsgail and Great Bernera. In a flurry of confidence, I decide to
tackle the next summit, Teileasbhal. This is a fair walk of about 1½
miles and 184 m ascent (600 ft). It’s easy going round Coire Sgurra
–breac, but boulders and stone slabs start to pop up. The grass is
flattened down in places, as if there has been recent snow. The way is
easy to find and there is room to divert around the nastier outcrops.
Meanwhile, the altitude gained begins to dwarf everything around. I
stop my ascent of the mountain some 100 yards short (about 15 m
vertically) of the summit, which is at 697 m (2,290 ft). Proceeding
further would have meant an uncomfortable sense of exposure. This is an
acute awareness of your height, and the precipitous drops nearby.
Furthermore, the actual summit is very rocky. It’s 13.45, and I’m in
serious mountain terrain now. The drop into the adjacent valley, to the
east, is 470 m (1,540 ft); I’m well above Mullach an Langa (614 m =
2,014 ft) across the valley. To the southwest, an even higher summit
can be reached by traversing a very exposed looking ridge to
Uisgneabhal Mor (729 m = 2,390 ft). This is the southeastern end of a
nasty-looking ridge toSron Scourst, which towers 491 m (1,600 ft) above
the valley leading north from Miabhaig. Only a few places are higher
than me now; Uisgneabhal Mor, Mulla fo-Thuath (720 m = 2,362 ft), Mulla
fo-Dheas (743 m = 2437 ft) and Clisham (799 m = 2,620 ft), the highest
peak in the Outer Hebrides. These four peaks look forbiddingly
precipitous, and I’d be very ill at ease on them. The view is
unforgettable, virtually 360°. South: Taransay, Ceapabhal and Sodhaigh
Beag + Mor, as well as the hills on North Uist and Benbecula. Loch
Resort pops up in several places. In the bright sunshine, the house at
Kinloch Resort stands out clearly, as does Morsgail Lodge. Can see Loch
Roag and Bearnaraigh Beag; hazy on the northern horizon stands Muirneag
near Tolsta, more than 25 miles away, and can discern the vague outline
of the Barvas Hills. Can see the ferry leaving Stornoway Harbour at
1.45. Close by, Glen Langadale next to Stuabhal; Loch Langabhat curves
northeast towards a very diminutive looking Roineabhal. Across the
hills to the east of the loch, Loch Seaforth and Seaforth Island stand
out in the sun. The mountains on the mainland march on the eastern
horizon, 50 miles and more away. Skye is visible to the southeast. A
view to put in your pocket and take home. Just before 2 pm, I start my
descent. Have a little bother with some of the slabs, but again, I have
room for a diversion or two. Walk round the corrie towards Stulabhal,
then down the hill to the pass and down that horrible stretch by Gil
Slipir. I dislike that boggy, slippery, stoney and steep bit. OK,
return to Langadale River at 3.30. It’s so warm, incredible. Wade
across the river, then go a little way up the path barefoot. Not bad,
except I sink ankledeep into all the bogs. Washthe feet in a stream,
then press myself hard to the road. No lunch today, incidentally, but
did treat myself to marsbars and apples. Bus arrives at 5.05 to take me
back [...]. Am well sunburned, and have taken off the waterproof
overtrousers. This naturally results in my trousers getting very dirty
indeed.
Friday, 24 August 2007
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I have sat here reading this entry with my chin resting on my cupped hands. I was so engrossed!
ReplyDeleteI stepped back as you were walking up higher at Teileasbhal. I don't like heights and you described this part very well Guido. Glad you cut it short...sometimes common sense, and gut instinct, is as well to prevail whether the view is worth it or not.
Quote: This is an acute awareness of your height, and the precipitous drops nearby.
I liked this imagery too. I shivered at that bit which brought back fell walking memories when my children walked near to the edge of a promontory we were on. Scary!
What spectacular views you saw...Loch Seaforth, Skye the CalMac Ferry, the mountains on the mainland....and all alone with the stunning views and the silent beauty of the moment.
Just wonderful! I can see why you have stayed where your are now, Guido,
it's a little bit of heaven.
Jeanie
WOW, Guido!!! I think I would have gotten so lost... LOL!!! No trees, it's beautiful in a 'barron dessert' sort of way!!
ReplyDeleteJoann