Reaching Orkney

Public transport or how it should not run. When I traveled to Orkney, exactly 3 years ago, things went belly-up big time. Fortunately, it all landed on its feet. I should point out that the journey starts at Helmsdale on the east Sutherland coast.

To Orkney - 01/09/04
Train is supposed to leave at 9.47, according to the timetable. On arrival at the station a group of men are weeding the platforms and flowerbeds. The clock in the war memorial, where I had a look before going to the station, strikes 9.45. No train. At 10 o'clock, I ring the train control centre about my train. This is running 47 minutes late. Wow. The train, when it finally materialises at 10.40, is the same set of carriages that had problems at Dingwall yesterday. Passengers for the Orkney ferry are getting concerned about their connection at Thurso. Whilst we pass through the empty moorlands at Kinbrace and Forsinard, the conductor tries to sort something out. We arrive at Georgemas Jct at 11.20. Ferry passengers are asked to change into a bus, which is waiting outside the station. Arrangements were poorly made and fall to pieces. Initially, the driver is only goin gto deliver us to Thurso railway station. Furious exchanges by telephone ensure that we are taken right to the ferry terminal at Scrabster. We duly arrive there at 11.50. Too late. Although the ferry is not due to leave until 12.00, we are not allowed on board because safety procedures have to be carried out prior to departure. They require everybody to be on board 15 minutes before advertised sailing time. This would have left us stranded for 7 hours, if it hadn't been for a lady kicking a fuss. This resulted in a taxi, paid by the traincompany, taking us to the ferry terminal at Gills Bay, 3 miles west of John o'Groats. Two taxis took 6 passengers up the ocast. My taxi deviates into the countryside to drop an elderly lady off at her house. We arrive at Gills Bay ferry terminal at 1 o'clock, well in time for the 13.25 ferry. Was not aware of this ferry service, which goes out to St Margaret's Hope on South Ronaldsay. Names are taken down and £10 collected. The ferry looms up in the distance at 1.15, and meanders through the maze of off-shore skerries. After all the vehicles are discharged, footpassengers are allowed on board. The boat looks familiar. It's a bit of a rundown rustbucket, but when I ask the lady in the cafeteria, my suspicions are confirmed. A blast from the past: the Pentalina B used to ply the waters of the west coast as Iona until 1996. I sailed in her in the early 1990s, from Tobermory to Armadale and Mallaig. I even spent a night in her in an overnight berth at Mallaig in 1992. This was prior to a 5 a.m. ferry departure for the isle of Eigg on the old Lochmor as was. Back to 2004. We sail at 1.30, heading past the Isle of Stroma. This was evacuated in the 1950s, with everything left in the then state of affairs. Progress further north past Swona, with the cliffs of Hoy to the west. At 2.30, we dock at St Margaret's Hope. We make a 90° turn at a shingle bar at the entrance to the harbour. The Pentalina B looks dishevelled, poorly painted and rusty. Poor old Iona. At least she brought me safely to Orkney. Docked there too was the Claymore another ex-Calmac ferry in a dreadful state. A taxi appears to take two ladies and myself up to Kirkwall, the main town in Orkney. We have an interesting ride over the Churchill Barriers, and duly arrive in Kirkwall at 3 o'clock. I nip into the TIC, which I finally locate past St Magnus Cathedral. Gather in essential info, such as bus and ferry timetables. Then have a look inside the cathedral and the museum. Still have me rucksack on, so the tight passages in the museum are awkward to negotiate. Museum gives an interesting first glance at Orkney life. I then proceed up the road to the Youth Hostel on the Old Scapa Road. Am bundled into one of the dorms after the usual formalities. Head into town to get some food in. There is a large supermarket on the Pickaquoy Road near the busstation. Make a booking to stay in the hostel at Papa Westray for tomorrow.