Friday 24 August 2007

Three years ago today

What went before...
After a few days in the Mallaig area, I relocated to the Western Isles on August 19th, to stay in Stornoway for one night. On Friday morning (August 20), I embarked on the 125 mile journey to Castlebay, Isle of Barra. Having spent an excruciating weekend on the most uncomfortable bicycle known to man, I was now wending my way back north, to Lewis.

I do not have pictures available of this trip.

Barra to Tarbert - 23/08/04
Breakfast was early, at 7.45, as I have been offered a lift with the man of the house who is driving an articulated lorry to Eriskay this morning. It's a huge vehicle, which has to go through an incredible number of gear-changes before it reaches something like a normal cruising speed. We leave at 8.30, and I'm surprised how nimbly the truck negotiates the narrow island roads. We're bang on time for the ferry at Ardmhor. The crossing, in a force 5 wind, is pretty lively. The lorry is shackled to the deck. Forty minutes later, we dock at Eriskay. I thank the driver and jump on the bus that's standing ready at the quayside, waiting to depart for Balivanich. The route goes over the Eriskay causeway to Ludag, Polachar Inn, Garynamonie and Daliburgh. At the Howmore Garage, we wait for a wee while, before continuing north. Have to change buses at Balivanich Airport. As I still have time, I nip inside to grab some sandwiches from a cafeteria. Meanwhile, I have coverage on my mobile for the first time since Friday, so the texts start flooding in. Finally, the bus arrives and I continue my journey north, via Grimsay to North Uist. The 13.30 ferry takes me from Berneray to Harris, under a grey sky. On arrival at Leverburgh, the Hebridean Transport coach is waiting, but we're not going for another half hour. When we do go at 3 pm, the bus turns into a sight-seeing tour, for the benefit of people who are doing a triangular trip with Calmac. We stop on the hill above Northton to allow tourists to take pictures of Northton beach. We stop at one beach, further up the road, for about 20 minutes. Everybody gets off to clamber down to the sandy shore, and walk almost as far as MacGregor's Stone, set on a hill off the far side of the beach. Our attention is drawn to good old Taransay and the Golden Road. Arrive into Tarbert just before 4pm. I decide to settle down for the night here. If I carry on to Stornoway, I may not be on time at the TIC to help me out with a bed. Arrival time there 5 pm. So, I make my way to the McLeod Motel, which offers me B&B for £28. Pokey little room with an iffy telly. WC and showers are shared with about 10 rooms. I go out for a walk up the Scalpay road, as far as the first sign for Urgha, past the junkyard. Retrace my steps into the village and ask for the library, which is located on a school's premises. This turns out to be a new building. Later on, I have a meal in the bar adjacent to the motel. Total lack of atmosphere in the bar,which is in common with the motel. Food acceptable. Have a nice chat with an Aussie lady who is working her way round the UK, waitressing. Her boyfriend does likewise. We compare notes on the Scottish experience.

1 comment:

  1. I gave Bryan the choice of choosing our B&B in Dunvegan on Skye, since I checked out or preious nights accommodation.  The house was wonderful from outside.  A Victorian mansion with well kept gardens and drive set back off the road...it looked good as I sat there waiting to see if he liked the look of it from the inside.  Out he came and gave me the nod.
    He had accepted the room.  When I got in I asked him where was the chest of drawers and as I turned round to look I saw there was no wardrobe either.  Just a canvas shoe rack hanging from a hook on the wall near the door.  It held the TV remote control and a hairdryer.  There was a lovely shower room en-suite which came with the double and single bed in the room.  The wardrobe must have had to make way for the extra bed and the money that would accrue.  C'est la vie!
    Breakfast and 'Mine Hosts' were very welcoming and helpful but..
    That's the life of 'happy campers'.  Take it as you find it.  Lol!
    I enjoyed the descriptiveness of your journey Guido.   You missed nothing.  We found the hospitality welcoming wherever we went, though perhaps that's because we went for an early meal and the  restaurants were quiet before the rush so the waiters/owners had time to make convivial conversation.
    I enjoyed this early written travelogue very much.  
    Jeanie

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